Common Betta Diseases with Symptom, Cause, Treatment and Prevention

This is part 1, I will update part 2 soonest. Hopefully this will be helpful for you. Comment your successful treatment to share with all of betta keepers.

• Fin and Tail Rot
• Columnaris
• Dropsy
• Ich

1. Fin and Tail Rot

Symptoms:

• Frayed fins.
• Fin edges turn white.
• Inflamed bases of fins.

Cause: This is bacterial infection (caused by different types of gram-negative bacteria, including Aeromonas, Pseudomonas fluorescens, and Vibrio). The disease occurs when the fish become stressed by something in the environment.The most common causes of Fin Rot are poor water quality and improperly low water temperature. 

Treatment: Fin Rot can be cured if it is caught early.

• Improve the water quality. This will include a water change and an examination of the tank. 
• Clean the tank accessories and vacuum any debris out of the gravel
• Check the pH level of the new water.
• After all of the fish are put back into the tank, add antibiotics to the water.
• Add aquarium salt to the water to help soothe the fish, treat the infection, and prevent infections in the future.

Prevention:

• Maintain good aquarium.
• Keep good water quality.
• Check the pH level regularly.
• Don’t overfeed your fish.

2. Columnaris

Symptoms:

• White spots on mouth, edges of scales, and fins.
• Cottony growth that eats away at the mouth.
• Fins disintegrate beginning at the edges.
• “Saddleback” lesion near the dorsal fin.
• Fungus often invades the affected skin.
• Rapid gilling in cases where gills are infected.

Cause: The most common causes of columnaris infections in fish are due to Injury and Poor water quality.

Treatment:

• Change water.
• Vacuum gravel.
• Add aquarium salt.
• Treat with copper sulfate or antibiotic.
• Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment.

Prevention: 

• Quarantine new fish for two weeks
• Maintain high water quality
• Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
• Medicate fish prophylactically before moving them
• Disinfect nets and other equipment before using

3. Dropsy

Symptoms:

• Sunken eyes.
• Body swelling/bloat in stomach.
• Pineconing of scales.

Cause: It is related to kidney failure, poor diet, bad osmoregulation, or other internal infections. 

Treatment:

• Isolate the sick fish in a hospital tank. To make water changes easier, this tank should be kept bare except for a filter and heater, if necessary. The temperature of the hospital tank should be as close to that of the original tank as possible.
• Create a salt bath by adding no more than 2.5 teaspoons of Epsom salt for every ten gallons of water in the hospital tank. The magnesium sulfate in the Epsom salts may help to draw the excess water out of the fish's body that caused it to swell.
• Feed your fish antibacterial fish food. You can either purchase prepared antibacterial fish food or make your own by creating a 1% mixture of fish food and an antibiotic like chloromycetin or tetracycline.
• Continue to feed your fish antibiotic fish food and monitor their progress for 7 to 10 days.
• If no improvement is seen after several days of treatment, treat the aquarium water with Maracyn Two. This medication is effective against bacterial infections and is absorbed through the skin of fish.
• If, after ten days of treatment, your fish shows no signs of improvement or if it becomes worse it may be that the cause of dropsy is not bacterial. If the antibiotics do not work and the salt bath is ineffective, there may be nothing else you can do for your fish.

Prevention:

• Maintain good water quality in your tank by staying on top of routine maintenance tasks.
• Perform routine weekly water changes in your fish tank; changing out between 10% and 20% of your aquarium's water volume.
• Perform a larger water change of 25% the tank volume once a month.
• Avoid feeding your fish too much.

4. Ich

Symptoms: The easiest way identify whether your betta fish has Ich or not is visually.

• White spots on the body and gills.
• The fish will become more irritated and may try to rub or scratch against the sides and bottom of the tank.
• The disease may then cause respiratory distress, severe agitation, loss of appetite, and eventually death.

Cause: There are many causes of stress in a fish's life, many of which can be made worse or better by the owner. Water temperature, water quality, tank inhabitants, improper diet, and a variety of other factors all contribute to stress, but one of the most severe causes of stress occurs during shipping and handling of a new fish. 

Treatment: Treatment is usually very easy and effective.

• If your Betta fish has tank mates, move him/her to a hospital tank.
• Increase the water temperature up to 86 degrees Fahrenheit. The Ich parasite prefer cooler water.
• Administer medicine to the aquarium.
• Cycle the water for a number of days. Remove the previous water and replace it with fresh, clean water.
• Continue medication as directed.

Prevention:

• Only purchase healthy fish that are free of all signs of disease.
• Never buy fish from a tank that contains a dead or a diseased fish.
• Always place new fish in a proper quarantine tank for a minimum of two weeks before introducing them into your tank.
• Never buy plants from a source that keeps them in a fish tank with fish. If you do, make sure to quarantine your plants for at least 4 days.
• Purchase fish from as direct a source as possible to reduce shipping and handling stress.

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To be continued

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Happy Fish Keeping!

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Who are the best betta tank mates?

Have you ever wonder who are the best betta tank mates?

You have a friend named betta and he/she looks abit lonely which will push you up to find your betta friends. So, I would like to list 10 best betta tank mates as below. Hope this will be your helpful suggestion.

1. African Dwarf Frog 

The African Dwarf Frog is an aquatic species and cannot survive on land. Two to three inches in length, average 5 years lifelong, these dark-green colored frogs prefer small stoned smooth gravel. Hiding spaces provided by plants, rocks, or driftwood are essential due to their shyness. Dwarf Frogs are also passive eaters. They have their own food requirements, and cannot survive on a diet of pellets, so you have to make sure that your betta does not eat your frog's food.

2. Ghost Shrimp

One of good tankmates for your betta is the ghost shrimp. Ghost Shrimp, also known as Glass Shrimp, are excellent scavengers.They are inexpensive and efficient aquarium cleaners that will actively search for any kind of left over food in your aquarium. They will happily live in 10 or more gallon-tank. They can grow up to 1.5 inches in length and live for 1 to 1.5 years with proper care.

3. Cory Catfish

Cory Catfish (also known as Corydoras Catfish, Cory Cats, and Armored Catfish) are loved by aquarists of all skill levels for their mild temperament, gentle nature, and unique characteristics. Corydoras live on the bottom, feeding, and can live alone or in schools depending on the size of your tank. They range from 1.0-2.5 inches in length and can live for 2-3 years.

4. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

This lovely fish is easy to care for and enjoys the same diet and water requirements as the betta. Generally, the betta likes warmer waters and the white cloud mountain minnow prefers colder temperatures, but 75 degrees Fahrenheit is a good middle ground that is ideal for both fish.

They are peaceful creatures that won't disturb their tank mates, and their discoloration will not make betta feel threatened.

5. Mystery Snails

A Mystery Snail is a freshwater aquarium snail often available in pet stores. They are highly unique in appearance with their large and colorful shells in golden, blue or dark brownish. Adults can grow to around 2 inches in size, with an average lifespan of one year. Ideal tank for mystery snails is from 2 to 3 gallons.

Mystery snails work hard to clean algae off of glass, plants, and decorations, they eat hair algae, and they keep your substrate clean and the correct color. They are completely peaceful, and therefore safe to keep with betta fish. Also, Your betta will normally ignore mystery snails, and if not, the snails have hard shell to protect themselves. 

6. Neon Tetras

Despite advising betta fish owners to avoid tank mates with bright colors, the neon tetra can do well with betta fish because of their speed. They are small schooling fishes that grow to be up to 4 cm (1,57 in) long, lifespan is about 3-4 years. Fish back is dark, olive drab colored, its abdomen is silvery. It is easy to care Neon Tetras with a 10 or more gallon - tank

7. Ember Tetras 

A mix of ember tetras and a betta is a nice idea. Ember Tetras are peaceful schooling fish. They thrive in the same conditions as the betta and require water that is anywhere from 68-84 degrees. They are also easy to feed, and like the betta, they enjoy foods such as brine shrimp, blood worms, and flakes.

They are on the small side only getting to be about .75 to 1 inch in size as adults and lifespan is from 2 - 4 years.

8. Harlequin Rasbora

Harlequin Rasboras are a beautiful, peaceful shoaling species suitable for the community aquarium. A school of 5 to 6 in a 10 or more gallon - tank will make an aquarium vivid and vibrant with movement. They can grow to 1.5 inches in length and live on average 5 years.

9. Clown Plecos

Another algae eater that can be compatible with the betta is the clown pleco. Clown Plecos are dark brown with yellow irregular vertical striping, which serves as camouflage when grazing on wood. They have hard, armor-like scales. They are small and peaceful and can be kept safely with most community species but not only with betta fish. They enjoy an average lifespan around 10 years in captivity and maximum length is around 4 inches.

10. Kuhli Loach 

Kuhli Loach is a good choice to get along with your betta. They are peaceful ground fishes which are more active in the evening and at night. They will grow to be about 8-12 cm (4-5 in) long, however in a tank it won’t be longer than 8 cm. Lifespan is about 10 years, although it may be longer.

Happy fish keeping!

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Best Plants For Betta Fish Tank

Aquarium plants are essential to a healthy aquarium, they provide natural filtration, give your fish somewhere to hide, and provide your fish with nutrients they need. This is especially important for small aquariums so you must to know which plants for betta fish are the best. There are many options of plants for betta fish keeper, but here I would like to list 5 Best Aquarium Plants For Betta fish.

1. Java Moss 

Java Moss is super popular for fish tanks due to it being fast growing, low-maintenance, and hardy. 

Appearance: Java moss grows carpet-like, with a fuzzy appearance.

Temperature: Java Moss is very tolerant, thriving in between 72°F and 90°F, however, the optimal temperature for growth is around 73°F.

Lighting: Java Moss will grow successfully in any lighting although fastest growth occurs in medium to high lighting.

Uses: Substrate masking, decoration, carpeting, and breeding for certain types of fish.

2. Anubias Nana

Anubias is a pretty, mid-ground plant that is incredibly tolerant.

Appearance: Anubias has curved stems with medium, ovate leaves.

Temperature: This plant grows best at 72°F to 78°F.

Lighting: Anubias prefers medium lighting conditions.

Uses: Mainly used for to decorate fish tanks, Anubias adds a beautiful splash of green to your aquascape.

3. Amazon Sword

The Amazon Sword is a must-have for many fish keepers and it is quick growing and easy to maintain. These plants can grow up to 20” and so are best planted in the mid-background area. 

Appearance: The leaves of this plant are large and sword like, hence its name.

Temperatures: Amazon Swords grow best between 72°F and 82°F.

Lighting: Amazon Sword growth is optimal in medium lighting.

Uses: Due to its size, this plant looks wonderful planted in the background. They are excellent hiding places for your fish.

4. Java Fern

Java Fern is really low maintenance, and its unique appearance appeals to many aquascapers.

Appearance: Java Ferns have thick and linear leaves that grow in bunches.

Temperature: This plant grows best in waters of 72°F to 78°F.

Lighting: Java Ferns grow most successfully in low to medium lighting.

Uses: This plant is best used in hardscaping, adding a splash of green to rock or wood, and providing a leafy hiding place for your aquatic friends.

5. Pogostemon Helferi

If you can get around it the strange name, this plant is one of the prettiest foreground plants out there. It’s striking zig-zag shaped leaves grow in blooms pattern that.

Appearance: Pogostemon Helferi has beautiful zig-zag leaves that grow in clusters.

Temperatures: This plant grows best at 72°F to 78°F.

Lighting: Pogostemon Helferi grows most successfully in medium lighting.

Uses: This plant adds an exciting splash of color to any hardscaping, and due to its clustered growth, makes an excellent hiding spot for your fish.

 Happy Fish Keeping!

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Interesting facts about Betta fish

You are a Betta keeper then How much do you know about Betta? Let's find interesting facts about Betta fish.

1. Betta fish are fresh water, small fish that are part of the Osphronemidae family.  Betta fish come in approximately 65 species, with the most popular one being betta splendens, or also called Siamese Fighting Fish.

Betta fish delivered their name from an ancient warrior group from Thailand, and were given the name in 1800s.

2. Betta fish can live up to 9 years in optional conditions.

Although on an everage Bettas lives around 2-3 years, when the water conditions are good.

3. Bettas are a small type of fish.  They range in size from under 1 inch up to 5 inches in length.  Size usually depends on what species the betta is.  The average size of the betta spledens, or Siamese fighting fish, is approximately 2.5 inches, with 4 inches considered to be giant. 

4. Not all bettas are fighters, the betta that hobbyists favor the most, the betta splendens, definitely is a fighting fish.

5. The males of the species are extremely territorial. Hence, the male Bettas are kept separately.

6. Bettas can be fooled by mirrors, believing their reflection to be a rival.

7. Bettas sport a large variety of diverse tail shapes.

8. Betta fish are bred in many strains of colors.

9. Bettas are carnivorous in nature.

10. They build bubble nests to help protect their eggs.

Happy Betta Keeping!

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Can My Betta Fish Live in a Betta Fish Bowl or Vase?

Can My Betta Fish Live in a Betta Fish Bowl or Vase?

This is a common question for begginer fish keepers. The answer is “Yes” but in this way they are called “Survive” but not “Live”.

Reading Wendy’s advice on itsafishthing, i tottally agree with her.

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How Big Should a Betta Tank Be?

This is a very hotly debated topic, with many opinions thrown around that often barely agree!

So to cut through the noise and give more than just our opinion, we’re going to discuss the issue from 3 points of view.

The 3 general benchmarks we’d like you to consider are:

·         The smallest ever acceptable advised by many experts

·         The smallest recommended for the average fish keeper

·         The smallest we personally recommend

And remember, these recommendations are THE SMALLEST recommended. Always go bigger if you can.

1. The Smallest Acceptable Tank Size For Betta is 1 Gallon

And this is the smallest acceptable, not what we recommend! It’s simply the smallest you can go to have any chance of even keeping your fish alive.

A 1-gallon tank has such a small volume of water that fast temperature fluctuations are almost unavoidable and betta (all fish really) need a constant temperature to thrive.

Such a small volume of water will rise and fall with the room temperature very quickly, whereas larger bodies of water hold their temperature stable – or at least take longer to rise and fall – so is better for the fish inside.

There is also the problem of finding a heater small enough for use in a 1 gallon aquarium or less. Many have come to market in recent years for aquariums in the 1 or 2-gallon range, but options for smaller aquariums are severely limited. So achieving stable temperatures is incredibly difficult.

Additionally, such a tiny volume of water can very quickly become toxic due to naturally occurring toxins.

Ammonia is extremely toxic and is secreted into the water as a waste product by osmosis from a betta’s gills, as well as from the fish’s waste and uneaten food. In such a small space, ammonia levels can very quickly reach fatal levels and only water changes every single day can really prevent this danger.

Finally, there is the argument of an enriched and suitable environment. Just how much can you put in a 1-gallon jar to mimic a natural habitat? How much substrate? How many plants? Bearing in mind that anything added takes away from the water volume so there will no longer be 1 gallon.

So a 1-gallon really is the absolute minimum acceptable betta tank size, though we would never recommend one so small ourselves.

Many expert keepers do keep numerous fish very well in 1-gallon aquariums, and many people passionately argue that a 1-gallon is all that’s needed. But we’re more in the 2.5 gallons+ camp ourselves.

2. The Smallest Recommended For All But Experts is a 2.5 Gallon Tank

Although arguably the smallest acceptable betta fish tank size is 1 gallon, we strongly recommend that causal / beginner / amateur fish keepers opt for a 2.5-gallon aquarium as a minimum.
The extra water in a 2.5-gallon when compared to a 1-gallon aquarium will mean ammonia and other toxic substances that build up in the water will always be less concentrated and therefore have a less detrimental effect on your betta’s health. 

The extra water will also mean smaller or less frequent water changes so it’s less work for you. A 1-gallon tank would need a water change daily, a 2.5-gallon tank perhaps every 3 or 4 days.

Furthermore, the larger volume of water will mean the water is more able to hold a steady temperature and not fluctuate so quickly with the surrounding air temperature. It also means you have a far wider choice of suitable heaters that can be used with the aquarium. As stated previously, a stable temperature is very important for any fish’s health.

Finally, the larger tank will allow you to have many more options when it comes to personalizing the look, by adding decorations, live or synthetic plants and so on. A more highly enriched environment for your fish and a better-looking display for you to appreciate.

3. To Do Best for Your Betta, And Less Work for You, Aim for 5 Gallons Plus

It may seem counter-intuitive, but:
“The larger your tank, the easier it is to maintain.”
Many people think to themselves: ‘I don’t want lots of work, so I’ll get a very small aquarium’.

But small aquariums need their water changed extremely often and the living conditions for the fish inside are often terrible and so they die young.

A larger, filtered tank makes it easier to establish a ‘cycled’ state whereby beneficial bacteria break down harmful toxins into far less harmful ones, meaning you can change the water less frequently and the ecosystem for your fish is far healthier.

According to Aquariadise.com and others, 5 gallons is the minimum size tank in which a cycle can be easily established.

And of course, the larger the tank, the more enriched and varied the life for your betta can be if you decorate it effectively.

The Truth is – The Bigger The Better!

The larger your fish tank, the easier it is for water parameters to settle, and the easier it is for you to maintain a consistently healthy ecosystem, and the higher the chances for your fish to have a healthy environment to live in.

The more water there is in a tank, the lower the concentration of any harmful substances that build up in the water.

Also, the larger it is (and less stocked) the less maintenance work you have to do, and the higher margin of error you have for making mistakes in keeping your aquarium clean and healthy.

Forget or not be able to change the water in a 1-gallon tank for a week and there’s an extremely high chance your fish would be dead.

Forget in a 2.5-gallon tank? Your fish will likely be mildly poisoned, but hopefully still alive. However long-term damage will be done and their life will almost certainly be shortened.

Don’t change any water for a week in a 20-gallon tank housing one betta? Well, you’re probably still right on schedule!

Please, Stay Away From the ‘Betta in a Bowl’ Package

Tons of people have the “betta in a bowl” at home and in their office. After all, it’s an easy, no maintenance pet, right? 

The packaging promises a “perfect symbiotic relationship” where the betta gets all his food and oxygen from the plant, usually a peace lily, and the plant survives on the waste from the fish.

But is this really true? Are the fish happy in this setup? Could a small bowl possibly be an adequate home?

Compare it to a traditional, larger aquarium and then decide:

·     The bowl is small, nowhere near a decent minimum size and often being somewhere between one third to one gallon. This tiny space just doesn’t give your betta enough room to live and swim around in.

·   The water is likely cold as you can’t use a heater in such a small space because you’ll end up cooking your fish. Unless your typical room temperature is 75 to 82 degrees, your water just won’t be warm enough.

·   The water will be dirty because a plant isn’t going to adequately filter it, meaning your fish is swimming around in their own waste, plus any waste the plant gives off when it starts to die off.

·   There won’t be access to proper food. Remember how in the wild they would eat fish fry, crustaceans, insect larvae and minuscule worms? They aren’t meant to live off plants alone. They will – but only because they’re desperate for ANY food!

·   There won’t be adequate access to air. The water will be almost stagnant, certainly oxygen deprived. Yes, they are known as ‘labyrinth fish’, meaning they have an organ to breath from the surface. But placing a plant on the surface of the water (such as the peace lily) makes it difficult for the fish to find room to breathe.

These cramped conditions put a lot of stress on a betta. As a result, most that live in a tiny bowl or vase only live a year or less, whereas those who live in a properly set up tank will last 1.5 to 3 years, some as long as 5 years.

That’s a remarkable difference!

Happy fish keeping! 

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